Any packet of seed labeled “Zinnia” will produce a reasonable facsimile of the flower we know by that name.

But what fantastic flower might bloom from a packet of seed marked “Golden Flower of the Incas” or “South African Veldt Flower” or “Star of Argentine?” Anything can happen in such a planting adventure and sometimes does. Here is the spice of gardening!

In our West Virginia garden we tried out as many new plants as space and time allow. Come what may, we are ever ready to try again, for we have found the surest way to avoid gardening doldrums is to grow something new and different each year.

Our most recent adventure had all cur neighbors exclaiming, “What on earth are those gorgeous flowers?” “Cockscomb,” we replied. Wait a moment before you shrug your shoulders and turn up your noses; you probably remember only grandmother’s dull, dreary dried stuff. But even Chanticleer himself cannot boast such plumage as these flowers have. Even the foliage is happy and bright. Our proud beauties were the new hybrids – Maple Gold, Rose Beauty and others – grown alongside the feathered Celosia plumosa – Fire Feather, Golden Feather and others.

Gardeners have long been accustomed to shielding their plants from insect and disease damage, but often neglect to supply protection from one of the greatest dangers – winter injury.

Of all garden plants, herbaceous perennials suffer the most from winter injury. Annuals have already scattered next year’s seed and shrubs have deeply anchored root systems, so they are safe. Perennials, on the other hand, are largely defenseless against the freezing, thawing and heaving which occurs during the cold months.

In areas where snow covers the ground from fall to spring, the task of “bedding down” is not so important. Borderline states which experience open winters also provide conditions that are disastrous for plant life. When nature does not offer a preventive snow blanket, the gardener must provide artificial protection.

The purpose of a winter cover is to keep plants frozen. Protective material should not be applied until the ground is solid, for if put on too soon, the cover may do more harm than good. No definite dates can be set, but the gardener must be alert to local conditions. In some years it may be as early as October and in others as late as December.

Have you ever come home from work dog-tired on a cool evening and smelled fried potatoes and onions? In my book, they belong alongside freshly baked bread as a “welcome-homer.”

If you, too, are a confirmed onion eater, no matter what anyone says then you might like to know what varieties are best suited to the many. different uses of onion.

There are hundreds of varieties of onions, but we seldom use more than four or five.

Here are some facts that will help you “know your onions.”

“Bunch” onions are those which are used green. They may be used in salads and relishes.

There are many varieties of the “dry” onion type. Any of these can also be used green. Some are better winter keepers than others.

Some are excellent keepers and good for general use.

A small, mild variety is good for creaming and for glace onions. They are best when used before fully mature.

Spanish onions are a good all-around variety but cannot be kept too long. They are good fried or creamed.

Of course, if you are a real, honest-to-goodness onion eater, you’ll want to grow a few red ones. Now, there’s a real onion!

Like hundreds of other plant lovers, spend many happy days in their flower garden. But, always when the last chrysanthemum had been cut down by killing frost there was the dreary time, between late fall and spring, when all growing things were withered and no flower bloomed.

After one of these ruthless frosts, which snuffed all color from the world and made it sad, Mrs. Preston decided to build a winter window garden in her home.

Since then she has had twelve months of color. A scarlet amaryllis, almost hidden by the foliage of an Easter lily, glows in the window. A novelty in gloxinias, called Lady Slipper, blooms year after year in the same pot with only a short rest period between flowering. Several potted geraniums bloom in their sea son and two of them (Nutmeg and Rose) have fragrant, spicy leaves which add greatly to their desirability and lend an interest even when the plants are no longer in bloom.

A Gloriosa lily, with strange flowers, has climbed 6 feet to the top of the window to crown it with its gold and crimson beauty. There are orchids, some of which bloom during the winter holidays to furnish corsages for friends.

Most Enthusiastic gardeners agree that gardening is a grand adventure with thrilling experiences at almost every turn. Yet as I look around among my gardening acquaintances. I am amazed to find that many miss much of the joy of their hobby by limiting their activities to the few short months of summer.

There are many ways the hobby of gardening can be an absorbing enterprise the entire year, and one of them is by allowing the seed and nursery catalogs to carry you through strange and exciting adventures during the winter.

There is an idea abroad among matter-of-fact gardeners that a seed or nursery catalog is merely sales literature for ordering plant materials. Their catalogs are discarded after their needs are ordered so as not to clutter up the house. They miss the pleasure and instruction which can be theirs from the correct use of catalogs.

To make clear what one gardener thinks is correct use, let me recount a few of the exciting adventures that have come my way during the years in which I have let seed and nursery catalogs be a part of my year-round living, but please overlook the perpendicular pronoun if it becomes too prominent!

Layering is a safe, sure, simple way to increase many types of plants, and particularly the climbers and danglers with which this book is concerned. The first requirement is that the plant have long, lax or drooping stems – which vining plants do. The rest is easy, because the stem is not severed from the parent until the new plant is well rooted and can survive on its own. Humidifying devices, bottom heat, and close protection are seldom called for.

Garden plants layer readily, sometimes even spontaneously. And layering is equally easy for indoor or greenhouse vines. A wandering stem or runner is simply pinned down on the soil in a nearby pot, and severed when it is securely rooted.

Ground layering in the garden takes place at the base of the parent plant. Loosen and lighten a small section of soil, and mix in some peat or other humus to help hold moisture. Select a firm, semiwoody stem, and open the thick skin in one of several ways to speed up rooting. The stem can be nicked underneath with a sharp knife, or split and held open by a small piece of toothpick or match, or simply twisted just enough to break the outside skin and separate a few of the inside tissues. Some plants insist on rooting at or near a node, others don’t care where. And some softer stems don’t even need to be nicked.

Young or newly transplanted vines are more likely to survive their first winter in a cold climate if they receive some special protection. Questionably hardy vines, or those planted in exposed areas, may need protection every year of their life. In any case, a vigorous, well-grown plant has the greatest chance to resist winter damage.

All vines in general, and evergreens in particular, need plentiful moisture in the soil until it freezes. This is your best insurance against late winter and early spring “burning,” in which warmth and sunlight draw moisture from the leaves before the soil is thawed and the roots are ready to send up moisture from below.

For extra protection, mulch the soil over the vine’s roots with several inches of buckwheat or cottonseed hulls, salt hay or straw, ground corncobs or sugar cane, or similar material. Snow is an excellent mulch, while it lasts.

Or make an eight-inch mound of soil over the roots and around the base of the stems, and wrap the rest of the stems in burlap. In extreme climates, loosen the roots on one side of a deciduous vine, lay its trunk or stems down in a trench dug out from the other side, and cover the whole with soil until early spring.

Ideal plants for those value fragrance rather than color, are the scented-leaved geraniums.

These offer a combination of pleasant perfumes and a wide variety of foliage form and texture. Since they are plants that are comparatively easy of culture, maintaining a collection is relatively simple.

Scented geraniums can be grown as house plants, in a greenhouse or as garden subjects left out all year in the more temperate south and southwestern parts of the country. They demand only ordinary care. Give them good garden loam, sunshine, moderate water, a reasonable amount of feeding, as well as occasional pinching, and they will thrive happily.

The scented varieties never become dormant. During dark, winter days, to be sure, they do not grow as fast as in spring and summer, but they always remain in full leaf, their hidden fragrance awaiting the slightest touch. As house plants, they are excellent, where they succeed in any sunny window. They are also not excessively sensitive to house conditions, such as dry atmosphere, high temperatures and the occasional presence of minute amounts of gas.

When to Water

Lighting for indoor houseplant, what does that mean? In a nutshell, it means that good light – and enough of it – is an important consideration in your plans for lasting effects with indoor plants. If you want to use vines for example on inside walls, away from windows, choose foliage varieties that will tolerate semishade. Or use the vines for temporary rather than permanent or lasting effect.

Sunlight

Daylight is necessary to all plants. Sunlight is another matter. The effect of sunlight – actually falling on a plant, not just near it; in varying strength and of varying durations according to plant varieties – is to stimulate formation of buds and flowers. If you want to decorate with a flowering vine, you can be fairly sure that it should grow where it will receive more than just a touch of sunlight. It can, of course, be grown in any sunny place until it flowers, then brought in for colorful display in any spot.

Some vines and flowering houseplants will flower with less sunlight than others. Duration and intensity of sunlight also varies with the seasons and geographical areas. In a Northern winter, for example, the sun shines weakly and for a short time. At noon in August it is burning hot almost anywhere.

Trellis – A “lath screen” used to support ornamental vines against walls and other vertical surfaces where the vine can not or should not climb on its own. If not in front of a wall or building, a trellis should be adjacent to one; it is seldom used alone.

Trellises are available, or can be constructed, in many sizes, types, and designs. The choice is usually governed by the style of architecture and landscaping. For a heavy vine, make sure the trellis is sturdy and long-lasting.

Because many vines make close growth, with matted, twisting stems, they need free circulation of air on all sides. Don’t set a trellis flush with a wall. Use brackets, angle irons, or wood blocks to hold it at least four inches – preferably six – away from the wall. And unless the wall behind is brick, stone, or masonry that will not need painting and repair, install a trellis so that it is not difficult to remove it. Hinges will often do the trick. A light, small structure can be set up so that it will easily swing back or out on inconspicuous hinges. A larger, heavier trellis may be equipped with sturdy door hinges; when the center pin is slipped out, the whole thing can be lifted out and set aside.