Climbing roses are popular both with people whose enthusiasm is for old roses and with lovers of the new. Most derive from a group of wild species called the Synstylae, which have lots of small white flowers in large clusters.

During the 1970s, the frontier between the larger miniature roses (larger in flower size and height) and the smaller Floribundas seemed to merge; the intermediates are now sometimes lumped together as patio roses.

Plant hunters had for centuries introduced new plants into cultivation From other parts of the world. The expeditions and their botanical booty increased enormously towards the end of the century, and introduced a large number of new rose species from eastern Asia.

Horticulturists in Europe and America, both amateur and professional, started to cross these Asian species with the Hybrid Perpetuals and Tea roses to produce new races and groups of garden roses.

Any rose raised in the last 100 years that does not fit neatly into a defined category is called a shrub rose. This includes primary hybrids like (Dupontir, over-large Floribundas like ‘Fred Loads’ and most of the super-hardy Buck, Explorer, and Parkland roses.

These are delightful evergreen shrubs with handsome leaves and yellow flowers. They present an air of stern uncompromising endurance which I find strangely attractive. The species Mahonia aquifolium makes a useful low-growing ground cover under taller trees, especially cherries or acers. This does not inhibit the flowering in April.

Self-layered branches will always be found ready for lifting in autumn. M . a. undulata is perhaps lovelier, but at 6 ft. high too tall for ground cover. M. japonica is so much better than bealei and undulata that for the small garden it must be the first choice. The large clusters of pinnate leaves form a nest from which emerge racemes of pale yellow fragrant flowers, in some years during February, in others March.

As a shrub enthusiast there are certain plants I yearn to grow well, and I go to a lot of trouble to achieve these ambitions. Now after six years of endeavour, my 4-ft. high bush of Osmanthus delavayi has rewarded my efforts with a creditable show of white, perfumed flowers.

For two years I had a plant of Motherwort, Leonurus cardiaca, labelled Perovskia atriplicifolia and my confusion on discovering the mistake will stop me committing any further careless follies of similar magnitude. The beauty of the grey foliage, near white sterns, and subsequent lavender-blue flowers depends very much on the associate planting. Grown at the edge of a flagged path to intermingle with the purple-leaved Cotinus coggygria, the shrub achieves a certain distinction. A well-drained soil and position in full sun are two further essentials for success. Cuttings taken in June or July will root in a sun frame.

Once specimens are established, self-sown seedlings abound in the borders around them. Grow them with the old-fashioned roses, and enjoy the old world atmosphere they bring together with the rather herby fragrance. Paeonia delavayi makes a 6-ft. high bush on wet heavy clay. The deep crimson, yellowanthered flowers, rich with the odour of cinnamon, open from June until early August, and are followed by black-seeded fruits.

P. lutea is best represented in the form ludlowii which was introduced from Tibet by Kingdon Ward, and has golden saucer-shaped flowers measuring 3 in. across. A truly magnificent shrub. The Moutan Peony. correctly listed as P. suffruticosa, is available in a wide range of colours, but loveliest of all are the China pink forms.

In the light, airy room that affords a constant temperature throughout the year there is an endless range of plants to choose from which will soften and improve the surroundings.

All these sources of knowledge can, no doubt, solve many problems but, to my mind, the best way to learn about the everyday problems of plant growing is to be responsible for a plant display at any major flower show. There you will hear astonishing tales about success and failure, and some of the incredible things that can happen to a humble rubber plant or sansevieria.

My job takes me to many such flower shows, and requires me to answer a vast number of letters on the subject of indoor plants. Some letters are amusing, others quite sad; some concern premature loss of leaves while others are from perplexed householders who have room ceilings too low for rampant monstera plants.

The majority of flowering pot plants will do much better in the lighter and cooler hallway – certainly in these conditions they will remain in flower and give pleasure for a much longer period than in a stuffy room. Cyclamen, azaleas, hydrangeas and primulas would give an infinitely better account of themselves. In very hot conditions the cyclamen can prove to be extremely difficult, and azaleas will come into full flower and pass their best much more rapidly.

Plants grouped together are infinitely more effective than an equivalent number of plants plants growing indoors will be some way below perfection.

The smaller plant is the creeping fig, F. pumila which, as the common name suggests, creeps along the ground and is ideal for finishing off displays and arrangements. Really, the figs do play a most important part in our work and it is difficult to omit the tough almost to the point of being indestructible, but also because she is very useful for providing a display with a change of leaf form. Also, the greenish-yellow colouring is complementary to many of the other plants in the house plant range.

Although I have no particular preference, as a group of plants the Dracaena deremensis types have much to commend them; mostly grey and white in colour they invariably give one’s plant arrangements a touch of the exotic with their broad, boldly striped leaves.

The questioner wanted to know what my ten favourite house plants were. After thinking for a moment I gave him my answer, and it struck me that the plants mentioned were in fact my ten fivourite display plants – the ones without which I would feel rather lost in an exhibition hall or flower show marquee.

I have a warm regard for plants which grow easily, flower profusely, and yet can be bounds without resorting to extreme measures. Kerria japonica will send out long arching branches up to 6 ft. in height, or sometimes 8 ft. when given a sheltered place. Whether the soil is heavy acid clay, or shallow well-drained chalk they can be relied upon to spread a creditable – mantle of yellow over green polished branches.

One of the most erect forms I grow is Ilex aquirolium camelliaelblia. The smooth, dark green leaves are almost spineless, and when mature the berries are produced in abundance.

Flowers are produced from the leaf axils in February through to April and are a deep rich yellow and delicately fragrant. Pruning is restricted to cutting back each flowering shogt in April to within two buds of the base. Jasminum officina.

Madame Briot fortunately for the sanity of the gardening public has the good sense to be strictly female, berrying majestically with leaves which are margined and blotched with gold.

Potentillas are absolutely indispensable shrubs. Amongst their virtues is the ability to grow practically anywhere in any soil except dense shade or a weeping bog. I cherish the dozen or so specimens and varieties which grow here, and enjoy the flowers which open in succession from May until September. They look a little untidy after leaf fall, but this can be forgiven in a shrub so thoroughly worthwhile.

Pieris like rhododendrons are strongly adverse to any soil which contains even a hint of lime. Indeed, as one ericaceous enthusiast gardening on a neutral soil expressed it, even walking across his garden with a piece of chalk in his hand turned the pieris pale.

Given an acid woodland type soil they make densely foliaged evergreen shrubs which deck themselves with racemes of lily-of-the-valley flowers in early spring. In some species the flowers are insignificant compared to the brilliant colouring of the young growth. The young growths open scarlet, change to pink, then pale cream before eventually acquiring the more sombre green.

Double lilacs are not my taste as a rule, but Charles Joly, a dark red, is worthy of space. Edith Cavell, cream to pure white, has not the character of the other fine white, Madame Lemoine, but shows sufficient resilience to grow on very wind-swept situations.

Paul Thirion, the last to flower with trusses of rose blossom fading to lilac, is like so many inhabitants of this globe, admirable when young but with a distinct tendency towards decrepitude with advancing years.

Syringa x persica, the Persian Lilac, is a charming slender-branched shrub with lilac flowers in May. Its variety, alba, is similar except for the white flowers.

Viburnum x carlcephalum and its parent V. carlesii are the most widely planted of the viburnums with attractive grey-green leaves and large white globose blossoms which are richly fragrant in May.

Surely no more unique setting could be devised for this magnificient genus than the rolling fells and quiet waters of the lake district. As if aware of this magnolias seem to flourish in the warm moist climate found there as I have never seen them do elsewhere. A deep, humus-rich yet free-draining soil with adequate moisture suits nearly all the species, but they do make an effort to grow on most soils.

Magnolia denudata, the Yulan or Lily Tree, does not take long to settle in and present the gardener with a few of the pure white, cup-shaped flowers which are so elusively fragrant that it would be almost better if they had no scent at all. Magnolias should never suffer root damage, so though pot-grown specimens may cost a little more they are worth it for the assurance of success they bring.

For general planting I would recommend M. x soulangiana, It is a most versatile species, the rather angulaithranching is strangely attractive and it achieves a unique beauty when adorned with the large, white flowers, stained purple at the base. The season ‘,varies between April and May, so combine the beauty with that of a pink- flowered azalea. A mulch with leafmould or well-rotted compost is a much appreciated tonic.

Acquiring plants and moss and arranging them in a container to provide an attractive and practical display is only the beginning; there are numerous other requirements if success is to be the reward.

Besides selecting good quality plants and creating humidity, it is also necessary to provide light, airy and reasonably warm conditions. A temperature in the region of 16 to 18C. (60 to 65F.) is adequate for all but the more tender tropical types of plant. Excessive heat can often present more problems than temperatures that are slightly below ideal requirements, especially if the atmosphere is very dry. Excess in most things is detrimental, and it would certainly seem to apply to plants where moderation does, on the whole, give much better results.

For most plants weak morning and evening sun is not particularly harmful, but protection is important for all but a few on the hottest days. Covering plants with a sheet of newspaper will provide a temporary answer, but it is better to remove plants to less exposed positions when the weather is very hot.