Plums need soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0. Buy standard trees 3 to 6 feet tall, and dwarf trees 3 to 4 feet tall. Japanese and Japanese-American hybrids begin to bear two to four years after planting; European and damson plums begin to bear three to five years after planting. In Zones 4 and 5, plant plum trees in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked; they should be planted during the fall or winter.

Cattleyas form part of a huge alliance comprising many other related orchids, the best known of the natural genera being Laelia, Brassavola, Sophronitis and Encyclia. These, and others, have been widely interbred for nearly 200 years to produce the colossal range of variously sized flowers that is available. The species in the alliance originate from Central and South America, and in the genus Cattleya there are about 50 species. Most of these are rare in the wild and are found in cultivation in specialist collections, where they have been raised in nurseries from selected clones. Hybrids can be counted in their thousands, and range from miniature plants containing species of the diminutive Sophronitis, mostly with brightly coloured flowers in orange, yellow and red, to the large, frilled excesses of the Brassavola crosses. The most well known of these man-made hybrids are Sophrolaeliocattleya, Brassolaehocattleya and Laeliocattleya.

The dendrobiums comprise an enormous genus and their growth is extremely varied to suit all environments. A somewhat unusual species is D. cunninghami, which is adapted to the temperate conditions of New Zealand.

Flower spikes are produced at regular intervals from the axils of the young leaves. Aerial roots are also made at intervals from the opposite side to the leaf, lower down on the plant.

No part of the plant is soft, the roots arc thin and wiry, the leaves hard, almost rough to the touch. Thus the plant is able to stand a severe climate, at the same time capable of extracting what little moisture there is available through its foliage.

The thin, diminutive pseudobulbs carry little food reserves and would not sustain the plant through any lengthy period of drought, although in extreme seasons the soft leaves would quickly be shed to help the plant.

The leaves of D. cunninghami are far more important to it than the roots or the pscudobulbs, both of which appear very meagre in their usefulness to the plant. -There are numerous miniature orchids found throughout the world which deserve more attention. They are every bit as beautiful as their Larger counterparts although a magnifying glass is helpful to see this.

Sarcochilus is a small, monopodial genus of modestly sized plants that come from Australia. Of the 15 or so species, only a very few are seen in cultivation. These, and one hybrid, grow with comparative ease, and excellent specimens are seen which are an indication of the plants’ reliability. These mostly epiphytic plants produce pairs of semi-rigid leaves on stems that do not become too tall. New growth is produced from the base. In this way, a tufted plant is created that will bloom profusely during the winter months.

Decomposition of the organic content begins slowly, and as the decomposition bacteria proliferate, nutrient availability increases gradually and reaches a peak about 80 days after being put into the soil. After this there is a gradual tailing off. This is a long sustained feeding action, and it indicates the best way to use this manure.

The manure is concentrated and, as with any other, it is quite capable of causing scorch. The best policy, therefore, is ‘little and often’. During the second half of March, sprinkle the dry powdery material either generally at about 1 ounce (28g) per square yard (square metre), or a level dessertspoonful – no more – around each rose at 8-12 inches (20- 30cm) distance from the stem, and scratch-hoc into the soil or mulch surface.

Cymbidium devonianum with fat, healthy roots growing straight down through the compost, an obvious sign of a sweet compost. Note that the roots are all round the edge of the compost ball. This particular plant has been repotted for six months, and this is a young root system growing vigorously and capable of taking up maximum moisture. Such a root system should not be allowed to dry out.

The roots on paphiopedilums are quite distinctive, always thick, hairy and brown in appearance. This makes it less obvious to tell live roots from dead ones, but the outer core will easily peel away on any dead roots. Although some paphiopedilums grow epiphytically or lithophytically, they do not produce aerial roots in cultivation, but keep their roots firmly in their pots.

Their own weight will soon cause them to assume a pendent habit, when they become entangled with the canes, often adhering to and growing along their length. These are annual roots, which serve the plant for one season only. They cease growing as the long caned pseudobulbs reach maturity, to die naturally at the same time as the leaves are shed and the plant prepares for its dormant period.

Being under constant supervision, any problems will be spotted quicker, as well as anything that may be a sign of poor health. You will also be quicker to notice when a plant is in need of water, and so on. It follows that the observant grower can attend to the needs of their plants the moment they arise, and has – therefore a better chance of growing good plants.

There is little doubt that the finest orchids are to be pAR grown in a properly controlled greenhouse. However, a greenhouse which is not looked after can irQuipm become a death trap and certain types of equipment are necessary to make sure that temperatures, humidity and light remain in balance and are suitable for the orchids.

Many orchids will adapt, arid this can become noticeable in the colour of the leaves and pseudobulbs, the permanence of aerial roots, as also the length of flower spike, and sometimes the colouring of the flowers. All these aspects can be changed by the environment in which the orchid is growing. Sometimes this can be to the plant’s good, sometimes not. Occasionally, beautiful plants will be grown but finally, it will be found that every plant has problems that will arise in coaxing them to bloom. Grow- ing orchids indoors is a matter of trial and error.

There are about 50 species of Laelia, which are found throughout Central and South America, with a high concentration in Mexico. They divide into several distinct groups depending upon their habits, which vary considerably.

To prepare the ground, scatter a 1-foot-wide band of 5-10-5 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pounds to every 25 feet of row; dig the fertilizer in thoroughly, and set the plants 2 to 3 feet apart in rows 4 feet apart. For later crops, sow seeds directly outdoors when night temperatures can be depended upon to stay above 60.

The genus is closely related to Cattleya, and the plants are sometimes difficult to tell apart. From the early days of hybridizing, laelias were crossed with cattleyas to such an extent that there are more laeliocattleyas than interspecific hybrids. Laelias are evergreen epiphytic plants, their size varying from 15cm (6in) to 1 in (3ft) tall. A number of the smaller growing species have pets. brightly coloured flowers held on upright sprays above the foliage for plants, such as Laelia cinnabarina, produce slender pseudobulbs with single, semi-rigid leaf. The larger nests such as L. crispa, resemble cattleyat while others, which include L. ar3ceste are more distinct with squarish pseudobulbs and a shiny single leaf Their flowers are carried on tall, slender flower spikes, at the end of which the large, 10cm (4in) blooms are held in a loose cluster.

Tomatoes, the most popular vegetable for the home garden, are divided into three main types. Small compact plants with stems only 12 to 18 inches long, called determinate, stop bearing once they reach their full size.

The results are often large, dramatic flowers with soft colourings, as can be seen in the hybrid genus Maclellanara, which combines Brassia with Odontoglossum and Oncidium. The species are characterized by the extremely long and narrow petals and sepals, which give rise to the common name of spider orchids.

The common persimmon grows wild in much of the southern and eastern half of the United States and will grow in Zones 5-10. Trees grow 30 to 60 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. This species bears 1- to 2-inch yellow, orange or purplish fruit in the fall. Good varieties are Early Golden, Garrettson and Killen. Plant trees of at least two varieties to ensure that the trees bear fruit.

Several nonresistant varieties are recommended because many gardeners find them worth growing for their flavor, color, size or vigor, even at risk of loss.

Chysis bractescens is an untidy plant to grow, and if grown upright will continually strive to turn itself the other way. Eventually the pseudobulbs grow out at all angles. Taking a closer look at this plant, it will be found that the heavy, club-shaped pseudobulbs are wasted at the base; they grow from a considerably thick, strong rhizome and swell out as they mature, consequently becoming top-heavy. Even when accommodated in an open basket this plant will look decidedly uncomfortable, and the best answer is to grow it in a pendent position on a piece of bark.

The plant is removed from the basket in the usual way, and cleaned of its bark compost. The bare-rooted plant is then placed on the raft with a pad of ostnunda fibre, into which the roots have been folded, between the plant and the wood.

Ideally the plant should be left with at least four pseudobulbs, including those in leaf, on the main plant. The excess pseudobulbs can be removed by slicing them from the plant with a sharp knife. The cut should he made downward to sever the rhizome.

Orchids in cultivation require regular repotting. An adult plant should be repotted on average every other year, or perhaps once a year, depending upon porri the type.

Most orchids will be happy in ordinary plastic pots; in fact, these are preferable to clay pots owing to the dry nature of the compost. Clay pots are useful for top-heavy plants, standing the plastic pot inside a slightly larger clay one. Those orchids which persist in making aerial roots can be treated differently; they can be put into hanging baskets, or wired onto a piece of cork bark. Cork bark is best because it takes a very long time to rot and because the roots can easily adhere to the rough surface.

Young plants in small pots will need to be potted or ‘dropped’ on into larger pots every six months or so, and this also should be done in spring and autumn. The summer growing and winter resting seasons are not good times to disturb orchids and should he avoided. Repotting becomes necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot, or preferably when it has just filled the pot. Sympodial orchids grow forward, producing each new pseudobulb or growth in front of the previous one.

The completed tree can be sprayed, wetting the plants and bark alike. From now on the tree will require spraying two or three times a day during the summer, and less in winter. With little in the way of compost around the base of the plants there is no danger of overwatering, but as shrivelling from underwatering can occur quite rapidly moisture is important.

Taking the first plant and a suitably-sized wad of damp osmunda fibre or similar material, place the latter against the tree with the plant on top. Any exposed, non-aerial roots can be tucked underneath the fibre. Once the plant’s exact position has been settled, a length of the wire is taken around the branch and plant and pulled as tight as possible with the pliers, and then twisted, and the end cut off short. Two or three tics may he necessary to secure the plant, which by now must be very firm in its position.

The old wire can be cut and pulled out, when it will probably be found that the plant is well rooted onto its bark. Careful teasing will lift the plant and its osmunda base clear of the hark, and the old fibre can he left in place to be used again.