Climbing roses are popular both with people whose enthusiasm is for old roses and with lovers of the new. Most derive from a group of wild species called the Synstylae, which have lots of small white flowers in large clusters.

During the 1970s, the frontier between the larger miniature roses (larger in flower size and height) and the smaller Floribundas seemed to merge; the intermediates are now sometimes lumped together as patio roses.

Plant hunters had for centuries introduced new plants into cultivation From other parts of the world. The expeditions and their botanical booty increased enormously towards the end of the century, and introduced a large number of new rose species from eastern Asia.

Horticulturists in Europe and America, both amateur and professional, started to cross these Asian species with the Hybrid Perpetuals and Tea roses to produce new races and groups of garden roses.

Any rose raised in the last 100 years that does not fit neatly into a defined category is called a shrub rose. This includes primary hybrids like (Dupontir, over-large Floribundas like ‘Fred Loads’ and most of the super-hardy Buck, Explorer, and Parkland roses.

The owners of small gardens need to utilise every scrap of space and they, therefore, must be more selective in their choice of plants. Climbers and wall plants will provide the answer to many problems for they will add both space and height to congested sites and will bring colour to every available wall. However, enthusiasm should be tempered with discreet understanding for there are climbers which love to be baked into brilliance of flower by hot sun, whereas others must be soothed by moist shade.

I always use a soft string which will not chafe even the most tender bark and, which is perhaps more important, it will rot after a year or two. When indestructible material is used I grow careless about the annual inspection to ensure the stem is not being constricted by the tie. All wall plants must be looked over at least twice a year to make certain the stems are not being chafed or strangled by the supporting media.

I could till a book with a selection of climbing and wall plants but as before will restrict the choice to those which have been proven in the crucible of the garden. There are two species especially suitable for wall culture, butoboth need different treatment.

The weeping fig of Ficus benjamina has small, oval-shaped, glossy green leaves and may grow to a height of 20 ft. in a large pot. Conditions similar to those suggested for the monstera are best. These plants dislike being moved from place to place, so should be left alone when obviously settled and growing well.

Philodendron hastatum, tuxla, Burgundy and lacineatuni are examples. Hederas, rhoicissus and such like may also be grown to considerable size, but they lack the majestic appearance of the plants.

The dry conditions created by the often too-high temperatures of the modern office is the principal reason for plants deteriorating. Exposure to excessive sunlight through unprotected glass can also be harmful to many of the shade-loving plants.

It will cost practically nothing for the typist to purchase a tradcscantia in a pot to decorate the nearest window-sill, but it may involve the owner in a considerable outlay if the entire office area is to he landscaped with indoor plants. The window-sill plant is usually the property and responsibility of the person working in the vicinity and need not involve any expense.

It will cost practically nothing to purchase a tradcscantia in a pot to decorate the nearest window-sill, but it may involve the owner in a considerable outlay if the entire office area is to he landscaped with indoor plants. The window-sill plant is usually the property and responsibility of the person working in the vicinity and need not involve any expense.

Philodendron hastatum, tuxla, Burgundy and lacineatuni are examples. Hederas, rhoicissus and such like may also be grown to considerable size, but they lack the majestic appearance of the plants.

The dry conditions created by the often too-high temperatures of the modern office is the principal reason for plants deteriorating. Exposure to excessive sunlight through unprotected glass can also be harmful to many of the shade-loving plants.

In this way the plant can draw up all the moisture required and there should be much less need to water the actual compost in which the plant is growing. It is easy to care for if treated in the same way as the monstera.

Abide by the fertiliser manufacturer’s instructions and better results will be a little larger, and procure a properly balanced potting compost. It is seldom, if ever, that one sees good-quality plants growing in what is often referred to as garden dirt. Composts should contain peat, sand, fertiliser and all sorts of other ingredients if potted plants are to do well.

When using aerosol sprays of any description (other than those for pest control and cleaning) plants should be carefully avoided; better still to remove them from the room altogether.

Like fertilisers, all insecticides should be used as instructed, as that seemingly harmless little extra may well cause leaf scorch and other damage. Pests should be treated as soon as they are seen, as any delay will make their control just that much more difficult.

Calat heel zebrina requires warm, shady conditions – not a plant to choose for a sunny but unheated room. Though the flowers of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis are superb, like many flowering plants the hibiscus is vulnerable to greenfly attack.

Almost all the house plants of taller habit which produce growing stems from which branches and leaves emerge can be propagated by means of top or stem cuttings. A top cutting is the end part of the growth, and with many types of plants (the aphelandra is a good example) it provides the best cutting, while other plants produce growth at the top that is often too soft to be of any real value. Stem cuttings are prepared from single leaves with a piece of stem attached, or simply from the piece of stem as in the case of dieffenbachias.

Often enough, with hederas for example, three or four leaves with a longer piece of stem will be used. In these instances it is usually advisable to remove the lower leaf or two and not to bury the remaining leaves in the compost. Plants resulting from this type of cutting are often fuller and of better quality. In the case of cuttings with smaller leaves (hederas, tradescantias and Ficus pinate) it is advisable to insert as many as six cuttings in a pot. Plants so produced are of much better appearance than those from only one or two cuttings in each pot. Hedcras, being easy to propagate, should be inserted directly into the compost in which they are expected to grow – transferring them from peat to compost is not necessary with the easier plants, and causes unnecessary disturbance of the new root system. However, when rooting cuttings of the larger leaved hederas such as H. canariensis they should first be encouraged to root in peat.

Oleoresin capsicum (`African capsicum oleoresin’) is prepared from the most pungent, small-fruited chillies grown in Africa and some other countries. This oleoresin has a very high pungency and is used exclusively for official pharmaceutical work, but it is employed mainly to impart pungency to manufactured foods and some beverages. His evaluated solely on its content of capsaicin; its colour value is low.

The chillies, which may have a moisture content of from 8 to 12 per cent, are next dried in the sun or artificially until crisp, to ease grinding and to prevent the chillies sticking to the grinding surfaces of the mill. In the USA, chillies are dried, before grinding, to a moisture content of from 7 to 8 per cent.

Capsicum oleoresin obtained from the whole fruit contains a considerable amount of fixed oil, originating mainly from the seeds. Pearson (1976) reported a range of 15.5-22.0 per cent in whole chillies. If the fixed oil is to remain in the oleoresin, the latter is liable to become rancid in storage.

Aglaonema is widely distributed in South East Asia. 16 to 2eC. (6o to 70F.). The suitable temperature for Aglaonema is less than 16C. (60F.); for a short period this may do little harm, but it is essential to provide adequate warmth if these plants are to do well.

Aglaonemas are mostly of compact habit and deserve to be more popular than they are at present. Specialist nurseries list several varieties, but on the whole they tend to be neglected. A few, such as the species Aglaonema commutatum, have rather dull foliage, so the hick of interest may be quite understandable.

When buying plants in flower it is best to select those that arc more backward in order to get the longest life possible from them. The ideal stage is when the pink bract is a little above the water level in the urn. Plants that have developed to the stage where the blue flowers in the otherwise pink bract are fully open should be avoided.

Though expensive, if purchased at the proper stage of development, A. rhodocyanea will give anything from eight to ten months of pleasure before the bract eventually deteriorates. The high cost merely reflects the time taken by the nurseryman to bring the plant to maturity, at least five years from seed under normal conditions.

Another pest that ruins the appearance of affected plants. Easy to detect but very difficult to kill off completely once they have made a home in the tangled branches of such climbing plants as stephanotis and hoya. One is often invited to visit the greenhouse of an enthusiastic amateur and see the wonderful range of plants being cultivated under one roof.

A mild attack of scale is not too damaging, but if left unchecked they multiply quite rapidly and will completely cripple the plant in time. They also leave a sticky deposit on leaves and stems which does nothing to improve their appearance.

Do this by wrapping a piece of polythene around the pot so that the soil cannot spill out, then dip the plant in the insecticide and swish it around to ensure that all leaves and stems have been well saturated, not forgetting first to don rubber gloves. Keep the plant out of the sun and allow the foliage to dry naturally before replacing in position.

Whatever else may he said of the ivies there is no lack of choice, and they can he adapted to many uses other than growing in very hot conditions. As far as possible a maximum temperature in the region of 16 C should he the aim, as higher temperatures will almost inevitably result in leaves drying out and in time falling off.

Red spider is often responsible for leaves gradually turning brown and shrivelling from the outer edge; inspection of the undersides should be made when such leaves are noticed. II. canariensis (II. Claire de Marengo), H. maculara and H. Goldleaf are the larger sorts that one is most likely to meet. These are essentially more upright plants and should be grown on canes or against a wall for support.

Ivies may he used for almost every purpose, as trailing plants, upright plants on stakes, climbing plants against the wall or, very effectively, as hanging basket plants. In this respect they may he used in conjunction with other plants, or as individual specimens filling the basket.