A cold frame need not be elaborate or very big and there are times when an orange box has served the purpose extremely well. To maintain the general appearance of the garden I prefer something neater made in wood, brick. breeze block, or cement. I use a two light frame, too big for cuttings really but it fills in for .seedlings as well.

To each bushel of the mixture add 11 oz. of superphosphate together with I oz. of chalk. All the John Innes composts may be purchased ready for use from any garden shop or horticultural sundriesman.

For shading the cuttings during the first few critical weeks I use laths on nylon string, spaced 1 in. apart by pieces of polythene hosepipe. This frame is used mainly for soft, or semi-hardwood cuttings which need shading for the first fortnight. After this they can be fully exposed provided they are watered carefully. In hot weather this may ,be necessary three or four times a day.

Depth of sowing depends very much on the type of seed. A good general rule is to cover them with soil to twice their own depth, but always wait until the soil is in a fine friable condition.

Leave the seedlings undisturbed till they are several inches high and then transplant them at the normal planting season for the species, giving them ample room for further development. They can then be grown on for at least another year by which time they should be big enough to go out into their permanent quarters.

As interest grows the urge to try growing the less common, rather specialist shrubs from seed will make the purchase of a heated frame or greenhouse essential. I have never regretted purchasing my own small greenhouse ; a pleasant retreat on cold or wet days with the initial price repaid in both plants and pleasure. A greenhouse will also be a valuable aid to rooting cuttings.

I have always had a great admiration for Taxus baccata both as a hedge and specimen tree. Unfortunately, even using large transplants. Many years must pass before we can sit in the shade of a yew planted by our own hands.

Under no circumstances should yew be planted where grazing animals can reach it or there could be tragic ,repercussions for the whole tree is poisonous – wood, leaves and berries. People who already possess a yew hedge should clip. feed, and cherish it, lavishing on it the care usually reserved for the family heirloom. Individual’s should be spaced at to 2 ft. apart although in times of financial embarrassment I have stretched this to 2-1- ft.

The former has purple leaves, the latter green and the contrast is exceptionally fine. Planted at 11 ft. apart, I was content to sit and watch them grow but two years later the gentleman who gave them to me descended on the garden with heavy pruners and cut the lot down to grbund level. There is now a superb hedge, thick, strong and some 5 ft. high. Clipped once or sometimes twice a year it gives no trouble.

As the rash of tarmacadam and concrete spreads to hide the soft green contours of rural Britain, so will an increasingly office-bound community turn to their gardens for a place in which to relax. Gardening is a healthy, creative hobby with many rewards and a well-planned and tended garden can provide its owner with a peaceful setting in which he can spend many happy hours.

I was very much a novice, depending on annuals for a quick return for my labours. A beautiful clipped yew planted when the house was built and a golden chamaecyparis were central features of the house frontage. Anything which took up space capable of supporting a marigold or godetia was anathema to me so one day when father was away I uprooted both these patriarchs on to the bonfire. No one in that quiet Dales village spoke to me for a week. They were all too busy sympathising with my parents for having produced such a wayward son. The many hundred trees I have planted since have not erased the feeling of guilt this piece of vandalism burdened me with.

My own views on the correct season for planting open-ground-raised shrubs fluctuate with the weather. In a wet season I have successfully moved rhododendrons, junipers, and laurel in June and July. However, pinned down to a single season I would settle: for early spring. Winters on my exposed garden can be brutal in the extreme and linked with a cold wet clay soil the shock is too much for all but the most robust genera. I prefer to let .the nurseryman carry my charges through the worst months, then as the soil warms give me the responsibility.

In fact, I proved to my own satisfaction that just five minutes exposure to a drying March wind reduces the viability of woody plants appreciably. In the case of conifers the dehydration proved fatal in one out of every four seedling thuja lined out as a hedge.

Choose a day when the stubbornest clay runs like silk from the spade, then fine root hairs can be firmed into position with the least damage. I prefer a dull humid day if there are several shrubs to plant up as strong winds or bright sunshine will dry exposed roots in a matter of minutes.

A small prostrate yew, Taxus baccata horizontalis, performs a similar function under a solitary Field Maple on the lane border in this garden. Strange that it took a friendly visitor’s appreciation to draw my attention to the service the native Blaeberry, Vaccinium myrtillus, gives as sub-scrub in the woodland.

To prevent primulas seeding under some shrubs growing only a path’s width away I carpeted the soil beneath the shrubs with Lithospermum Heavenly Blue. The mat of leaves was covered with a mass of blue flowers in early summer. Indeed, these continued intermittently until the autumn. This plant is difficult to root and started to take extra care with the cuttings. I lost all but three from one batch so that now I continue my old practice and once again the cuttings root with perfect composure and no difficulty.

The growth of the Butcher’s Broom, Ruscus aculeatus, is closely packed, and the spine- tipped leaves appear highly polished as if they were varnished. Though extremely shade tolerant it resents a very wet acid soil, and berries sparsely in poor light conditions. Only once, in Northumberland, have I seen the bright red marble fruits really thick on a bush which was sited on the west face of a low wall.

Few shrubs can amass such an array of blackfly as the viburnums and these must be dealt with, for over two or three years the shrub will be reduced to a mass of stunted twisted twig-like growths.

Possibly the safest general feeds are those based on organic substances which in addition to feeding have no detrimental effect on soil texture. The release of the nitrogen, phosphates and potash takes place over a long period so that very little is lost by the plant through being leached away in soil drainage.

Bonemeal, hoof and horn, and fish meal, together with mixtures based on seaweed can be used over almost the whole garden without fear of harmful side effects. Usually, as well as the nitrogen, phosphates and potash, they contain a whole series of trace elements which though required by the plants in parts per million rather than ounces per square yard are never the less essential if the plants are to grow well.

There are, of course, the paraquat-based chemical weedkillers which can be used amongst established shrubs if the border is very dirty. Providing these do not come into contact with the leaves they will not harm the cultivated plants. The chemical acts only through the chlorophyll in the leaves so it can be sprayed right up the stems of the shrubs.

I would consider a garden without evergreens, especially conifers, to be incomplete. Throughout the year they play an important role in providing a subtle contrast in shape and foliage texture and they are very valuable when the cold ngers of frost have stripped the foliage from -deciduous trees.

There are species and varieties so slow growing that they will grow contentedly for a generation with the modest dimensions of a trough garden. At the other extreme the family includes trees mat soar, 100 to 120 ft., majestic in their perfect -Fymmctrical outline. No matter the size of garden – be the landscape formal or designed to Iarmonise with the natural scenery around are conifers of the right shape and foliage colour to fit and enhance the picture.

I would hesitate to suggest planting bamboos in a small garden were it not for the fact that one of the finest specimens I know grows in a small garden where the soil is so well drained even the worms carry water bottles.

The species in this case, and my own favourite, is Arundinaria nitida. The long gracefully arched branches are the epitomy of elegance and the canes which are flushed purple are furnished with long thin foliage.

Nothing will make a newcomer to gardening an outcast of society quicker than to be continually borrowing tools. There is no need, however, to rush into buying one of everything and a good collection can be built up slowly as required ; some being needed immediately while others can wait for a birthday.

The tools described will make up a modest collection and they will certainly be adequate to maintain the largest shrub border. To the basic outfit could be added a manure fork and shovel which would make the annual mulching of the border with manure or compost rather less of a labour.

At long last the gardener can don heavy boots and take a spade in hand to make a start on preparing the soil to receive the chosen shrubs. Newly planted shrubs will establish rapidly if they are provided with a soil. which has been worked some fifteen inches deep. First take out a trench across one end 15 in. wide, placing the soil to one side for filling up the final trench when the work is completed.

The cambium is a thin layer of tissue composed during the growing season of actively dividing cells. Only these cells of both the scion and rootstock are capable of joining one to the other into an indissoluble whole.

Prepare the stocks for budding by clearing the soil away from around the base of the stem and wipe the exposed area clean with a moist cloth. Make a cross cut on the prepared surface, then an upward cut to meet it, drawing with the knife blade a letter T. The bark should lift easily with the knife handle if the stock is fit to bud. Remove the bud by starting a slanting cut one inch below the chosen bud and coming at the same distance above. The shield can be trimmed to size after insertion.

Where the T-shaped cut is made depends on what type of tree is required. If a bush form is wanted then the cut is made 4 in. above soil level but with half or full standards from three to six feet of clean stern must be left. The bark is lifted, the bud inserted and bound exactly in the manner described for roses.