Sarcochilus is a small, monopodial genus of modestly sized plants that come from Australia. Of the 15 or so species, only a very few are seen in cultivation. These, and one hybrid, grow with comparative ease, and excellent specimens are seen which are an indication of the plants’ reliability. These mostly epiphytic plants produce pairs of semi-rigid leaves on stems that do not become too tall. New growth is produced from the base. In this way, a tufted plant is created that will bloom profusely during the winter months.

Decomposition of the organic content begins slowly, and as the decomposition bacteria proliferate, nutrient availability increases gradually and reaches a peak about 80 days after being put into the soil. After this there is a gradual tailing off. This is a long sustained feeding action, and it indicates the best way to use this manure.

The manure is concentrated and, as with any other, it is quite capable of causing scorch. The best policy, therefore, is ‘little and often’. During the second half of March, sprinkle the dry powdery material either generally at about 1 ounce (28g) per square yard (square metre), or a level dessertspoonful – no more – around each rose at 8-12 inches (20- 30cm) distance from the stem, and scratch-hoc into the soil or mulch surface.

Cymbidium devonianum with fat, healthy roots growing straight down through the compost, an obvious sign of a sweet compost. Note that the roots are all round the edge of the compost ball. This particular plant has been repotted for six months, and this is a young root system growing vigorously and capable of taking up maximum moisture. Such a root system should not be allowed to dry out.

The roots on paphiopedilums are quite distinctive, always thick, hairy and brown in appearance. This makes it less obvious to tell live roots from dead ones, but the outer core will easily peel away on any dead roots. Although some paphiopedilums grow epiphytically or lithophytically, they do not produce aerial roots in cultivation, but keep their roots firmly in their pots.

Their own weight will soon cause them to assume a pendent habit, when they become entangled with the canes, often adhering to and growing along their length. These are annual roots, which serve the plant for one season only. They cease growing as the long caned pseudobulbs reach maturity, to die naturally at the same time as the leaves are shed and the plant prepares for its dormant period.

Being under constant supervision, any problems will be spotted quicker, as well as anything that may be a sign of poor health. You will also be quicker to notice when a plant is in need of water, and so on. It follows that the observant grower can attend to the needs of their plants the moment they arise, and has – therefore a better chance of growing good plants.

There is little doubt that the finest orchids are to be pAR grown in a properly controlled greenhouse. However, a greenhouse which is not looked after can irQuipm become a death trap and certain types of equipment are necessary to make sure that temperatures, humidity and light remain in balance and are suitable for the orchids.

Many orchids will adapt, arid this can become noticeable in the colour of the leaves and pseudobulbs, the permanence of aerial roots, as also the length of flower spike, and sometimes the colouring of the flowers. All these aspects can be changed by the environment in which the orchid is growing. Sometimes this can be to the plant’s good, sometimes not. Occasionally, beautiful plants will be grown but finally, it will be found that every plant has problems that will arise in coaxing them to bloom. Grow- ing orchids indoors is a matter of trial and error.

There are about 50 species of Laelia, which are found throughout Central and South America, with a high concentration in Mexico. They divide into several distinct groups depending upon their habits, which vary considerably.

To prepare the ground, scatter a 1-foot-wide band of 5-10-5 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pounds to every 25 feet of row; dig the fertilizer in thoroughly, and set the plants 2 to 3 feet apart in rows 4 feet apart. For later crops, sow seeds directly outdoors when night temperatures can be depended upon to stay above 60.

The genus is closely related to Cattleya, and the plants are sometimes difficult to tell apart. From the early days of hybridizing, laelias were crossed with cattleyas to such an extent that there are more laeliocattleyas than interspecific hybrids. Laelias are evergreen epiphytic plants, their size varying from 15cm (6in) to 1 in (3ft) tall. A number of the smaller growing species have pets. brightly coloured flowers held on upright sprays above the foliage for plants, such as Laelia cinnabarina, produce slender pseudobulbs with single, semi-rigid leaf. The larger nests such as L. crispa, resemble cattleyat while others, which include L. ar3ceste are more distinct with squarish pseudobulbs and a shiny single leaf Their flowers are carried on tall, slender flower spikes, at the end of which the large, 10cm (4in) blooms are held in a loose cluster.

Tomatoes, the most popular vegetable for the home garden, are divided into three main types. Small compact plants with stems only 12 to 18 inches long, called determinate, stop bearing once they reach their full size.

The results are often large, dramatic flowers with soft colourings, as can be seen in the hybrid genus Maclellanara, which combines Brassia with Odontoglossum and Oncidium. The species are characterized by the extremely long and narrow petals and sepals, which give rise to the common name of spider orchids.

The common persimmon grows wild in much of the southern and eastern half of the United States and will grow in Zones 5-10. Trees grow 30 to 60 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. This species bears 1- to 2-inch yellow, orange or purplish fruit in the fall. Good varieties are Early Golden, Garrettson and Killen. Plant trees of at least two varieties to ensure that the trees bear fruit.

Several nonresistant varieties are recommended because many gardeners find them worth growing for their flavor, color, size or vigor, even at risk of loss.

Chysis bractescens is an untidy plant to grow, and if grown upright will continually strive to turn itself the other way. Eventually the pseudobulbs grow out at all angles. Taking a closer look at this plant, it will be found that the heavy, club-shaped pseudobulbs are wasted at the base; they grow from a considerably thick, strong rhizome and swell out as they mature, consequently becoming top-heavy. Even when accommodated in an open basket this plant will look decidedly uncomfortable, and the best answer is to grow it in a pendent position on a piece of bark.

The plant is removed from the basket in the usual way, and cleaned of its bark compost. The bare-rooted plant is then placed on the raft with a pad of ostnunda fibre, into which the roots have been folded, between the plant and the wood.

Ideally the plant should be left with at least four pseudobulbs, including those in leaf, on the main plant. The excess pseudobulbs can be removed by slicing them from the plant with a sharp knife. The cut should he made downward to sever the rhizome.

Orchids in cultivation require regular repotting. An adult plant should be repotted on average every other year, or perhaps once a year, depending upon porri the type.

Most orchids will be happy in ordinary plastic pots; in fact, these are preferable to clay pots owing to the dry nature of the compost. Clay pots are useful for top-heavy plants, standing the plastic pot inside a slightly larger clay one. Those orchids which persist in making aerial roots can be treated differently; they can be put into hanging baskets, or wired onto a piece of cork bark. Cork bark is best because it takes a very long time to rot and because the roots can easily adhere to the rough surface.

Young plants in small pots will need to be potted or ‘dropped’ on into larger pots every six months or so, and this also should be done in spring and autumn. The summer growing and winter resting seasons are not good times to disturb orchids and should he avoided. Repotting becomes necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot, or preferably when it has just filled the pot. Sympodial orchids grow forward, producing each new pseudobulb or growth in front of the previous one.

The completed tree can be sprayed, wetting the plants and bark alike. From now on the tree will require spraying two or three times a day during the summer, and less in winter. With little in the way of compost around the base of the plants there is no danger of overwatering, but as shrivelling from underwatering can occur quite rapidly moisture is important.

Taking the first plant and a suitably-sized wad of damp osmunda fibre or similar material, place the latter against the tree with the plant on top. Any exposed, non-aerial roots can be tucked underneath the fibre. Once the plant’s exact position has been settled, a length of the wire is taken around the branch and plant and pulled as tight as possible with the pliers, and then twisted, and the end cut off short. Two or three tics may he necessary to secure the plant, which by now must be very firm in its position.

The old wire can be cut and pulled out, when it will probably be found that the plant is well rooted onto its bark. Careful teasing will lift the plant and its osmunda base clear of the hark, and the old fibre can he left in place to be used again.

When the plant has been stripped bare to the roots it can be divided. A leading piece consisting of a double new growth and four-leaved pseudobulbs is removed by severing the rhizome with secateurs. One further leading division of a similar size can be removed from the other sick of the plant, leaving a hack division with leafed pseudobulbs which can also be potted. Any good leafless pseudo- bulbs should be divided and potted singly. Alternatively the rhizome can be severed in the pot six months before repotting when the back division will have started a new growth.

On an annual basis a Paphiopedilum can, for a number of years, be repotted back into the same size pot, or, if the compost is still in good condition, be `dropped on’ without disturbance to the root ball, into a slightly larger pot.

A vigorous-growing Paphiopedilum can he divided only if there is snore than one new growth with at least two mature supporting growths for each division. To reduce the plant further will affect its flowering capability for some years to come. The only reason for dividing paphiopedilums is where they have become too big to manage. Otherwise it is better to keep them as one plant. The rhizome adjoining the growths is quite soft, and the bare-rooted divisions will easily pull apart in the hands.

Orchids which have been growing in baskets for some length of time will have attached their roots firmly to the wooden slats, and it is difficult to remove the plant without some damage. These epiphytes quickly make up for any root loss by producing new ones immediately after potting, providing that it is done at some time during the spring months. The roots therefore can be cut away using a sharp pruning knife and slicing around the inside of the basket. This enables the plant to be gently prised free from the base, and no damage is done to any part of the plant above the surface.

By the time the Encyclia pentotis has been removed from its existing square wooden basket, it will have little of its original root system left, and with the removal of the old compost there will be nothing to hold the plant in the new basket. Using a length of plastic-coated wire and a pair of pliers position the plant in its new elongated basket with the oldest, leafless pseudobulbs to one end, so that the front of the plant is close to the other end, with sufficient room available for at least two years’ growth.