One adaption in orchids can be found among the epidendrums. The species E. falcatum retains all its weight in the thick, heavy leaves. The root system is not numerous, but s-ong enough to hold a heavy plant firmly in its place on a tree. The pseudobulbs are merely short stems which support the long, spears-lriaped leaves which, rough and hard, will withstand a harsh environment. They are the main source of food supply for the plant.

The life span of a root can be one season only in orchids whose pseudobulhs arc of annual duration or the roots may live for several years, their life span related to the state of the pseudobulbs they are supporting. When leaves are eventually shed, that pseudobulb has no further use for roots, and they will die naturally.

Nevertheless their culture remains specialised, and their roots are all important to them. They do not take kindly to pot culture and should be accommodated on hark. Pieces of rough bark are ideal, as their extensive fine root system will take advantage of every crevice, the roots hugging the bark as well as growing freely in the air.

There are various grades of polythene sheeting for fixing to the glazing bars with drawings pins or a stapler. For an aluminium house there are specially-designed clips. A totally sealed greenhouse will give the grower a fresh crop of problems. Condensation will build up on the polythene and reduce the light drastically in the winter when every bit of light is of benefit.

It should be placed near the floor, below the plants, to allow the cool vapour to reach the plants standing above. Within a few weeks of introducing a humidifex into the greenhouse or home you should see a noticeable increase in aerial root activity on your orchids.

This material can be fixed in the same way as polythene, but because it is full of minute holes it is able to breathe which prevents condensation and drip. Neither does it cut too much light from the plants. The netting is easily obtainable from garden centres. It can be taken down in summer and stored for the following winter. As it does not tear easily, it should last for several seasons.

The heater is the most important single piece of equipment in the orchid house. The choice of equipment is wide, from the old- fashioned coal or coke fired boilers with hot water pipes, which can be fired by gas, either bottled or mains, or oil from a reservoir tank to the most modern, clean and efficient electric heaters.

The main benefit of a hot water system is that if anything goes wrong, and the fire goes out, you are left with a large reserve of hot water which will keep hot for many hours giving time to rectify the fault.

Although reliable, this equipment is expensive to install. The most popular form of heating is by electricity, either tubular, fitted along the walls beneath the staging, or the electric fan heater usually placed on the floor. This produces a current of warm air which circulates evenly throughout the greenhouse, thus ensuring that there are no cold spots.

The orchids live behind plate glass in an environment where the humidity, light and temperature are all controlled. A time clock measures the difference between night and day to ensure that the plants receive the right amount of artificial light every twenty-four hours and that the temperature rises and falls in sequence with the lights.

The lycastes are a relatively small, but influential, natural genus of medium-size plants. They have had a great impact on the related anguloas with which they will readily interbreed to produce some of the most showy artificial hybrids.

The majority of the flowers are typically triangular, the shape formed by the widely spread sepals that frame the cupped petals and lip. When crossed with the tulipshaped anguloas, the superb, large, openflowered angulocastes are produced, which have done much to promote this alliance. Although the majority of the species within the lycastes and anguloas are of pale colouring, the rosy-red varieties of Lycaste skinneri have emphasized rich colours in hybrids such as L. Wyld Fire.

The largest flower in the genus is that of M. acrura, which measures 30cm (12in) or more vertically from top to bottom. This impressive length arises because of the long, tapering sepals. These evergreen epiphytic, or occasionally lithophytic, orchids inhabit cool, shady and moist areas of forest woodland high in the Andes of South America.

Plums need soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0. Buy standard trees 3 to 6 feet tall, and dwarf trees 3 to 4 feet tall. Japanese and Japanese-American hybrids begin to bear two to four years after planting; European and damson plums begin to bear three to five years after planting. In Zones 4 and 5, plant plum trees in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked; they should be planted during the fall or winter.

Cattleyas form part of a huge alliance comprising many other related orchids, the best known of the natural genera being Laelia, Brassavola, Sophronitis and Encyclia. These, and others, have been widely interbred for nearly 200 years to produce the colossal range of variously sized flowers that is available. The species in the alliance originate from Central and South America, and in the genus Cattleya there are about 50 species. Most of these are rare in the wild and are found in cultivation in specialist collections, where they have been raised in nurseries from selected clones. Hybrids can be counted in their thousands, and range from miniature plants containing species of the diminutive Sophronitis, mostly with brightly coloured flowers in orange, yellow and red, to the large, frilled excesses of the Brassavola crosses. The most well known of these man-made hybrids are Sophrolaeliocattleya, Brassolaehocattleya and Laeliocattleya.

The dendrobiums comprise an enormous genus and their growth is extremely varied to suit all environments. A somewhat unusual species is D. cunninghami, which is adapted to the temperate conditions of New Zealand.

Flower spikes are produced at regular intervals from the axils of the young leaves. Aerial roots are also made at intervals from the opposite side to the leaf, lower down on the plant.

No part of the plant is soft, the roots arc thin and wiry, the leaves hard, almost rough to the touch. Thus the plant is able to stand a severe climate, at the same time capable of extracting what little moisture there is available through its foliage.

The thin, diminutive pseudobulbs carry little food reserves and would not sustain the plant through any lengthy period of drought, although in extreme seasons the soft leaves would quickly be shed to help the plant.

The leaves of D. cunninghami are far more important to it than the roots or the pscudobulbs, both of which appear very meagre in their usefulness to the plant. -There are numerous miniature orchids found throughout the world which deserve more attention. They are every bit as beautiful as their Larger counterparts although a magnifying glass is helpful to see this.

Sarcochilus is a small, monopodial genus of modestly sized plants that come from Australia. Of the 15 or so species, only a very few are seen in cultivation. These, and one hybrid, grow with comparative ease, and excellent specimens are seen which are an indication of the plants’ reliability. These mostly epiphytic plants produce pairs of semi-rigid leaves on stems that do not become too tall. New growth is produced from the base. In this way, a tufted plant is created that will bloom profusely during the winter months.

Decomposition of the organic content begins slowly, and as the decomposition bacteria proliferate, nutrient availability increases gradually and reaches a peak about 80 days after being put into the soil. After this there is a gradual tailing off. This is a long sustained feeding action, and it indicates the best way to use this manure.

The manure is concentrated and, as with any other, it is quite capable of causing scorch. The best policy, therefore, is ‘little and often’. During the second half of March, sprinkle the dry powdery material either generally at about 1 ounce (28g) per square yard (square metre), or a level dessertspoonful – no more – around each rose at 8-12 inches (20- 30cm) distance from the stem, and scratch-hoc into the soil or mulch surface.

Cymbidium devonianum with fat, healthy roots growing straight down through the compost, an obvious sign of a sweet compost. Note that the roots are all round the edge of the compost ball. This particular plant has been repotted for six months, and this is a young root system growing vigorously and capable of taking up maximum moisture. Such a root system should not be allowed to dry out.

The roots on paphiopedilums are quite distinctive, always thick, hairy and brown in appearance. This makes it less obvious to tell live roots from dead ones, but the outer core will easily peel away on any dead roots. Although some paphiopedilums grow epiphytically or lithophytically, they do not produce aerial roots in cultivation, but keep their roots firmly in their pots.

Their own weight will soon cause them to assume a pendent habit, when they become entangled with the canes, often adhering to and growing along their length. These are annual roots, which serve the plant for one season only. They cease growing as the long caned pseudobulbs reach maturity, to die naturally at the same time as the leaves are shed and the plant prepares for its dormant period.

Being under constant supervision, any problems will be spotted quicker, as well as anything that may be a sign of poor health. You will also be quicker to notice when a plant is in need of water, and so on. It follows that the observant grower can attend to the needs of their plants the moment they arise, and has – therefore a better chance of growing good plants.

There is little doubt that the finest orchids are to be pAR grown in a properly controlled greenhouse. However, a greenhouse which is not looked after can irQuipm become a death trap and certain types of equipment are necessary to make sure that temperatures, humidity and light remain in balance and are suitable for the orchids.

Many orchids will adapt, arid this can become noticeable in the colour of the leaves and pseudobulbs, the permanence of aerial roots, as also the length of flower spike, and sometimes the colouring of the flowers. All these aspects can be changed by the environment in which the orchid is growing. Sometimes this can be to the plant’s good, sometimes not. Occasionally, beautiful plants will be grown but finally, it will be found that every plant has problems that will arise in coaxing them to bloom. Grow- ing orchids indoors is a matter of trial and error.

There are about 50 species of Laelia, which are found throughout Central and South America, with a high concentration in Mexico. They divide into several distinct groups depending upon their habits, which vary considerably.

To prepare the ground, scatter a 1-foot-wide band of 5-10-5 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pounds to every 25 feet of row; dig the fertilizer in thoroughly, and set the plants 2 to 3 feet apart in rows 4 feet apart. For later crops, sow seeds directly outdoors when night temperatures can be depended upon to stay above 60.

The genus is closely related to Cattleya, and the plants are sometimes difficult to tell apart. From the early days of hybridizing, laelias were crossed with cattleyas to such an extent that there are more laeliocattleyas than interspecific hybrids. Laelias are evergreen epiphytic plants, their size varying from 15cm (6in) to 1 in (3ft) tall. A number of the smaller growing species have pets. brightly coloured flowers held on upright sprays above the foliage for plants, such as Laelia cinnabarina, produce slender pseudobulbs with single, semi-rigid leaf. The larger nests such as L. crispa, resemble cattleyat while others, which include L. ar3ceste are more distinct with squarish pseudobulbs and a shiny single leaf Their flowers are carried on tall, slender flower spikes, at the end of which the large, 10cm (4in) blooms are held in a loose cluster.