Tips on Plants Nutrients
Few shrubs can amass such an array of blackfly as the viburnums and these must be dealt with, for over two or three years the shrub will be reduced to a mass of stunted twisted twig-like growths.
Possibly the safest general feeds are those based on organic substances which in addition to feeding have no detrimental effect on soil texture. The release of the nitrogen, phosphates and potash takes place over a long period so that very little is lost by the plant through being leached away in soil drainage.
Bonemeal, hoof and horn, and fish meal, together with mixtures based on seaweed can be used over almost the whole garden without fear of harmful side effects. Usually, as well as the nitrogen, phosphates and potash, they contain a whole series of trace elements which though required by the plants in parts per million rather than ounces per square yard are never the less essential if the plants are to grow well.
There are, of course, the paraquat-based chemical weedkillers which can be used amongst established shrubs if the border is very dirty. Providing these do not come into contact with the leaves they will not harm the cultivated plants. The chemical acts only through the chlorophyll in the leaves so it can be sprayed right up the stems of the shrubs.
Only in extreme cases do I resort to spraying as a control for pests or diseases. Even then only the chemicals which are absolutely harmless to other wild life are used. On land newly broken in from pasture, wireworms, cockchafer grubs, or cutworms may prove troublesome.
The bones of animals when steamed and finely ground are a valuable source of phosphates. The breakdown is slow so that the food is released over a long period. Plants short of phosphates usually have a poorly developed root system and basic slag or superphosphate of lime can be used to correct an obvious deficiency quickly.
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